Saturday, April 30, 2011

The end of star designers

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi

Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi have been the last to fall. Gianfranco Ferre has brought them clear out the street. The economic problems of the company, acquired last February for Paris Group , are, according to the company, the reasons for his dismissal.

Defenestrate creative director in fashion. Since the debacle in March, John Galliano , the list has been steadily gaining weight: Christophe Decarnin ( Balmain ), Vanessa Seward ( Azzaro ) Cedric Charlier ( Cacharel ) and now the couple behind the Italian Gianfranco Ferré.

John Galliano

The case showed that the houses Galliano prefer to protect its name to defend their designers. His dismissal was due to anti-Semitic insults (intolerable, of course) he uttered on several occasions ( video included). With him was the extravagance of an era.

Fashion goes for the guillotine. Not even Karl Lagerfeld, the mind behind Chanel, is safe according to some sources . The marks endure every day but the antics of the designers-star. They no longer agree. Now look Burtons Sarah (Alexander McQueen), creative directors employees, effective, low-profile formed within the home. The signing of Olivier Rousteing is an example. "The house Balmain is pleased to announce the appointment of its new designer, Olivier Rousteing. Mr. Rousteing will oversee the creation and development of both the male line and the women's prêt-à-porter ", reported the signing on its website martesla. Little is known about this French trained at the School of Arts and Techniques of Fashion (ESMOD) and Roberto Cavalli (where I work five years) before his appointment.

What's is carnage? While luxury brands that are not pulling their hair out by the crisis (some groups like LVMH are going great ), the situation is not to make experiments ... In other words, it is much harder to defend eccentricity of a kind designer Galliano in lean times.

Olivier Rousteing, new creative director of Balmain.

In the nineties was a logical move. Brands designers, celebrities hired to reinvent (Dior among them). But now there comes to mind. Frédéric Boudelier, Director of Heritage of the Maison Dior, told me a few months ago, "Dior was known to older house once. Talking about your roots have become obsolete. But Galliano has rejuvenated. [...]. In this age of homesickness is normal to recover the figure of Christian Dior and the origins of the firm. "

Following the sinking (economic crisis) the houses are struggling to maintain its identity and essence. Strong personalities can clog.

The era of supermodels ended quite some. Is this the end of the superdiseñadores?

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