Thursday, April 26, 2012

The evolution of fashion in the twentieth century (II): from 1910 to 1920

vogue 1912
The years preceding revolutions are sometimes as interesting as those that change history. And while the biggest increase in the first half of the twentieth century occurred in the 20's, the previous decade laid the groundwork that would make that fashion came into true modernity and freedom of women, in all respects, pass to be the true protagonist.

The fashion decade begins strongly influenced by the Russian Ballet and orientalist aesthetics. Mata Hari and Isadora Duncan show more skin than fabric and capped with women begin to shorten skirts to show their ankles and wear necklines. But the First World War changed everything and the silhouette dominates the trend in 1918 is a tube in the chest should be concealed as much as possible, and in which the woman had been freed from the "classic corset" going to submit to "brace smoothing" or what we would call a bra.

Madeleine Vionnet

vionnet 2

It's easy to label pioneer and not all who have been qualified as such have been. But that's not the case of Madeleine Vionnet . He was in many fields in 1912 after creating their couture house after leaving Doucet, trademark which had arrived with the task of rejuvenation: it was the first to use the cut on the bias across a dress that was supposed to use more material but also completely change the fall of the garment, and trying to conceal and hide the seams of clothing, was the first to worry about the copying of their creations and performed a record with three photos (front, back and profile) all your creations to bring them to the patent office, created their models in a fashion plate of 80 cm in height so that their clients could see would be the finish of the garment.


It was the first designer to use mathematical concepts and architecture as the golden section as the most important thing for her was the proportion and also paved the way for synthetic fabrics made ​​using a silk crepe and your provider acetate fabric manufactured in exclusively for her.
But something as contrevertido innovated today as the rights of their employees, giving them decent working conditions, paid vacation and sick insurance long before they were mandatory.

Although his main contribution was to lay the groundwork for mass production of clothing, which later became the ready-to-wear, without which today do not understand fashion. His influence on later generations of designers has been ongoing and probably will never disappear.

Jean Patou


Like Vionnet, Patou opened his couture house in 1912. He came from a family dedicated to leather and fur but his rise to fame would come from two fields untapped: the casual clothes and attaching the name of a celebrity clothing line.

Something that made ​​primarily with Suzanne Lenglen, a French tennis player was the first female star of the sport and also to become famous for his victories also made ​​to appear in court at Wimbledon with a knit dress that showed her arms and legs (unlike other players who were covered from head to toe).

Your use of the period opened the way to Coco Chanel and was the first to design ties "designer". He is considered the creator of the cardigan, left influence in his work by artistic movements such as Cubism, developed new fabrics for swimsuits and I think exclusive lines for sport ... Even some attribute the creation of aesthetics " flapper "that would be iconic in the 20's.

An absolute pioneer.

Downton Abbey

And a recommendation to finish. A good way to see the evolution of fashion in this decade is seeing "Downton Abbey" a British series that begins with the sinking of the Titanic these days has been commemorated its centenary and it already has fascinated America and Vogue to me, in which you can see the changing trends over the years while enjoying a good time television.

Photos | The Metropolitan Museum of Art , Vogue

In Jared | The evolution of fashion in the twentieth century (I): from 1900 to 1910
In Jared | Trends Spring-Summer 2012: those crazy 20's

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