13:00 this afternoon. November 15, 2012. Three hours before H & M had launched its riskiest capsule collaboration with a designer unknown to the public, Maison Martin Margiela . Store located on Calle Orense Madrid, privileged area of the capital which have a large establishment. As you enter, to the right, an entire space dedicated to women's collection. All items available. Scarce public demand, this is another story.
The pursuit of prestige minority
When H & M opted for Maison Martin Margiela brand knew where he got. Not looking for a massive sales success, nor that there was a waiting public expectation with the new Nexus or iPhone on duty, as on other occasions had achieved by Versace , Lanvin , Roberto Cavalli and Marni . H & M does not say it publicly but clearly still looking to improve their brand has connections with prestigious designers, associate des these positive values, marketing tactic oldest beans. And of course, Maison Martin Margiela is perfect for it, much as the designer has left his house for years.
The policy of H & M going to mix designer capsule collections for the mass audience, see a Versace, with minority views but of high quality and design, betting more artistic so so gimmicky. They combine a collection of sales success with another more difficult. After Anna dello Russo came MMM And after this one that will level the balance. It's all very measured. You do not get to be the world leader in fashion with empty policy.
From the very firm that I talk about tactics: "intersperse with other renowned designers that are not so."
The store fills, few sales
We return to the store of Orense, showcase dedicated to the launch, on hangers entire collection available until 13:00 pm only had recovered at least according to one's stock clerks and the store manager, who have clear speech established by the brand: it is a collection that seek to exhaust the second is a collection based on quality, design, innovation in search. Five people in the store brand share almost the same words in separate conversations. The communication efforts of H & M is impeccable. Forever.
This time I was not at the time of the opening so you wonder what such an influx was: the answer is ambiguous, distant and dodging the issue to convey that was low, especially compared to other collections. Moreover if we remember that the store had other launches an area bounded by the capsule collection, had to take turns, limits consumer garment ... Sometimes, at 13:00 pm, better not going to the store if you did not want more residues.
Collection MMM was not an adaptation to patterns of H & M, but a repeat study of garments mythical of that mark, which have a quality that surprised me when I saw them in advance , with prices for the type of release we speak. H & M is not pulled into the pool, "we know that each collection has its audience" in the words of the firm itself. "This time with MMM We are talking about the same range of audiences that when we take the collection with Comme des Garçons . "
Success in communication, successful collection
From H & M emphasize the good reception that has had the collection in media and industry professionals. These professionals are the ones who ultimately will become trend-setters and influencers of their readers, so H & M should not only be measuring success in sales, but in a campaign full image detail that surely are doing because if you think I have measured them at the maximum. The mark improvement in public perception, may not buy, you may not like what you see but it's more than likely that positive values of this release.
There was much public queue outside stores but there has been much anticipation, the response has been very positive from the media and customers, we have received many calls and the feeling was very favorable.
They sell all the collection or not I think H & M estimate that union a success. Also have risked a broad stock. Only in Madrid collection was available in five stores and as I had from the brand even exceed stock reached its union with Versace, which already went quite. All this while I have to "adapt according to public demand." I was also surprised to hear this but it is they who are leaders in fashion, I not only see the store filled.
One of my questions is what will happen to the collection MMM after today or tomorrow if this does not end: would withdraw from the store? Remain?? The response from the brand is clear both from communication and from the store:
The capsule collections usually sell very quickly, in this case with Maison Martin Margiela may not be, but we will continue to maintain the collection in the shop space.
This collection is intended for the purchase is more drip. It's another kind of collection, based more on the design, qualities [...] and buyers see more doubters who think it enough to buy it and then re-tested for it. It is a collection that is sold instantly.
We have never taken any previous collection for not having sold all stocks, this will be the same. Remain in store until the stock is depleted.
On whether it will sale or not if it is something in the air the answer is negative, while private and managers do not know because it is among the agreements they have reached H & M and the mark of the capsule collection.
All this is not surprising, or at least should not. Maison Martin Margiela talked about as if it were our friend Pepe, when many people a priori "updated" still believe that the creator remains within the firm that bought Diesel, when many others did not know who he was until I see it in the Recent news and more so when just input the name in your head to see it in a shop window.
According to the same H & M:
We often happens that designers or brands have more popularity as a result of having made a collection with us, as was the case of Matthew Willliamson, the regular customer of H & M in our country and sounds this name, with Margiela have happened same.
The latter could be called even patronage. An operation in which "adopted trademark" and "mark base" wins. More and less Versace Margiela and fashion we see in the store that does not sell (which must have a type and a specific style to get along knowing) in a few years will seem so normal. Good for H & M, or by those stores with more unsold stock.
Photos | Natxo Sobrado
In Jared | The most privileged look and Martin Margiela's collection for H & M at the party organized by pre Harper's Bazaar
In Jared | H & M Spring 2013, a preview of the collection: the century Bohemian style XXI