Thursday, February 14, 2013

"Hay que pagarnos una fortuna si tenemos que desfilar en IFEMA", entrevista a Alvarno


After the first part of the interview yesterday at Alvarno is to know its relationship with the international market in countries like Kuwait or Dubai, how is the client profile that has the firm in Spain, their relationship with the world of film and fashion to confront their parades and marching in absolute denial IFEMA within the official gateway to the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Madrid. A brief summary of what we talked to designers Arnaud Maillard and Alvaro Castejón, responsible for the Spanish firm.

Will we one day, short or long, to Alvarno to store?

Arnaud: In Spain.

Alvaro: The medium term is very difficult here.

Ar: The theme of Paris can change many things. Perhaps Alvarno medium term will have an office in Paris. That's the idea. Within two years. Before you have a store, have a home in Paris with a mini workshop, media, commercial and showroom.

Have you thought to go for an online store?

AL: An online store itself is more likely to come before. Anyway we have had international clients who sell online, luxury websites.

And enter a style web Net-a-porter?

AL: That's one more customer that buys you in international fairs.

Is it hard to get in there?

Ar: At Net-a-Porter himself. It is difficult because they are set at all brands in the world but in the end if you're not in Paris with your showroom is another matter. But with the collaborative project with the brand in France are going to post more in Alvarno.


We focus on your space, how the customer comes into your hands?

AL: Here comes the website, by the press, and call are an appearance. Left with appointments. Generally the first date we do not make. There are three types of clients: the next to get a jacket, a coat, a suit or a dress that has a specific act or something. A few seconds to choose the garments of the parade. And then there's the issue of brides, bridesmaids and related. It's another market.

Ar: There are many people who come, have seen the show and tell us they want the same dress. We customize that choice, if you want another color, length ... Each person leaves here with his piece. Maybe it's the same dress but with a different color. It is a unique personalization. We can do well in Spain at the moment.

With people of Kuwait or Dubai is impossible. We have made some dresses with lots of flowers, embroidery and lace just for the last parade. The workshop was in plan: going out for a ... And in the end are the dresses sold in Kuwait. They do not look at the price. It's different. Just the fact of having a different dress and makes them buy.

What is the type of audience you have in Kuwait?

Ar: It's a different audience. There are mothers, are the daughters of these mothers delicious. The daughters did not want to go to Chanel, Gucci or Lanvin. If you go to a party they will find a friend with the same dress. So they are looking for new brands. The person who purchased the collection and asked Alvarno exclusivity for Kuwait's happy. It asked only the most expensive dresses in the collection. In our case it is a surprise because we had done it just for the parade.

What type of client profile you have in Spain?

Ar: There is everything. Especially travel much.

AL: They travel a lot and usually very familiar fashion. All brands. They buy a lot out. Come to us looking for a very specific type of clothing to fill their wardrobe. They are women who have a very international life. There are many. But it seems not.

Most of them are anonymous, some not, but most are people working, traveling and is looking for something for special occasions. You can be everything. Right now we have a customer who comes to be a lady lawyer. She wanted a coat that had the fur collar and wanted it for their day to day and he has a coat similar to the collection but without the fur collar.

Do you have in mind how many customers will visit every month?

Ar: It is very difficult to say. You have a week with six appointments with people looking for a custom design and other more or less. A week ago there was a person well but ultimately has become such appointment for three people. Sometimes a person comes with a friend and then she leaves with three or four pieces, and the person who wanted to leave without buying anything.

How much budget can be a client who wants to dress Alvarno?

AL: In the ready-to-wear dresses are from 670 to 700 euros to 5,000 euros if you want because they are very elaborate and embroidered dresses. As the quality depends on whether you want a certain type of lace or not, special embroidery. This varies greatly.

Ar: And never repeat a wedding dress.

AL: Are dresses on sketches. Are unique. Having had the first meeting that we are not present and where we spend all the feedback of what the person expresses his sketch is made, and several versions and choose.

Many firms are looking at the famous greater projection, appear at events and on the red carpet for the brand and grow the audience. How Alvarno in case such a relationship?

Ar: We are currently looking to dress a person for Goya but it seems that at the moment can not come here because you need to choose a dress from the Academy showroom.

The issue of celebrities in the press with a photo shoot sometimes we say it is for that person. We can say yes or no. Then, famous for dressing called Alvarno yes there. Celebs who buy dresses to wear there. But do not get into this game of dress to wear. If we have a relationship with this person the dress. Dress to be named in the press, no. This almost never.

We met the people and gradually we say: I will go to an event, do you think and organize a test. If we receive calls and emails from people famous who wants to go to a gala and we some people said yes and others not.

AL: We care about our image much, you have to select who you want to take her. If someone comes to buy a dress great but if you're the one who is providing the image then you are polling must be close to her and in tune.

Belen Rueda body

For the cover of the movie 'The Body' did a dress to fit Belén Rueda.

Ar: Costume Director called us. They had chosen to Valentino and Gucci for this movie. She had seen pictures of the parade last year and called us black one she loved for what would be a point in the film where she turns back and teach.

A Belén Rueda loved us and we talked about many things with the costume designer, not only fashion, from homes to ghosts. It was a very good feeling. Was: "If you want to Bethlehem then OK for us." We did tests with Bethlehem and then no news.

In September we call, for if they could send a photo even if for a souvenir. And them: "Yes, yes, do not worry, I will look". September, October, November, early December ... back from Paris on the night, in the taxi on the street Serrano and I was looking at a poster as what dress! Then I see: "The Body" with Belén Rueda. Ah! I can see why they did not want to send the photo. Because I have chosen to make the movie poster. It was a megasorpresa.

What I planteáis future new collaborations with the world of cinema?

AL: If at first is interesting and gives you, sure, why not.

Ar: If you share the same vision, if in addition the person, the actor or actress is feeling with us, yes.

How do you see the Spanish media that deal with fashion?

Ar: We are very lucky because the press supporting us from the beginning. There are also means that we do not support, do not come to the parade and we invite their prizes or their parties, from the beginning also. We will send the invitation to our parade. If you have the education to answer very well. If you do not have the education to answer nothing happens, we invite them. Because if we do a parade is for the press. If people will not come to your parade because it is a Saturday or later that's another topic. Each has its work philosophy and mindset. Gradually remove people because there are other people interested. In general, the response is very positive.

The fact that new things to seek when presenting the collection outside IFEMA With a context very careful about quality designs and a selection of well-made guests also generates this positive opinion. People will see you is because they want to go to the parade is not because it touches.

AL: Well, we have not gone because we've never been. Always on our way to present the continent as well as the content because the parade is one and then you have to decorate your concept with your performance.

Ar: Also, if after a year with the brand you are invited to join the Association of Spanish designers, you call, we went to talk to them and then later vote no. Spanish is the only brand that is not in ACME .


Voted? Designers not within ACME ?

AL: Yes, the designers themselves.

Ar: Then you see people every month or every three months and they say, "the next time you are entering very sure." But I do not want to go. Leave me alone. I continue with my company, we maintain this environment, you'll like it or not, nothing happens. We are not friends, nor will we ever be.

Then why are you calling me for two months and then they send you moved an email that lacked one vote. And I said, no, that means half plus one voted no. It's different, to put it positively. After that if not understood is another matter.

AL: Today we talked with Laura [Ponte, who collaborate in Lubi Lab] and his message was very positive. At this time you have to do is join, collaborate and support each other. But what comes of these associations in Spain is always negative and dark.

Ar: But you can change things if people speak slowly.

AL: Sure, we'll have it because that's what happened to us. We have no objection to. We took a big disappointment.

Ar: Ah, I do not.

AL: We are in the calendar IFEMA and do not have any support, or of the press that they can bring or offer, or casting, or makeup, hair ... All that others have "free", because you pay a fee, I do not know if 5,000 euros for parade But one thing is clear assembly, but everything else site ... And yet you're on your calendar.

You have striven to take a step forward, trying to do things differently and I go aside either. Surely you come behind other cases in the near future.

Ar: Yes but I do not understand how some designers parade outside in OFF and enter Cibeles. That I would like to know why. Why it costs "nothing" the parade? You can not have an address for six months in support of the platform OFF which is more and six months after desfilas within IFEMA saying it most. You have a direction, not two at a time because in the end you're listening and you're surprised: after all white and all black? That makes no sense.

Tomorrow I will not parade IFEMA , Tomorrow or in 10 years. So I tell you. You have to pay us a fortune if we have to march in IFEMA .

It's funny because at no time IFEMA is Real Madrid. That if you play in the morning and you come Móstoles Real Madrid to go running ficharte and charming.

AL: Yeah, but you have done as if it were a monopoly of Spanish fashion. And it is not.

But they have done with the monopoly of customers.

AL: Oh, not at all. And the trouble is that with the press either.

Ar: But the international press who comes? Cibeles? Anywhere is Style? No, why? Why fashion week in Istanbul, Rio de Janeiro Sao Paulo have more impact than Madrid? And we are talking about new countries in this respect but they know very well organize. Furthermore, in Istanbul bring all people: from Carine Roitfeld at Vogue whole team. Why not come to Madrid? Why is an ugly city, bad weather? No. It is a perfect city, both for your time, for its museums, on the night ... I do not understand why this country does not get to have more fame fashion level.

AL: I think there will be people who cares so little that he does not care that people who take 30 or 40 years in positions well follow. But I do not understand.

Ar: If you have a vision if you can be in a position like this. A very professional person with a responsibility that carries well for so long, with a futuristic vision that can bring people level, yes, but here's a post as if it were in a Social Security office.

AL: There are young talents emerging strongly and I worry that caught a bad guide to follow. What about the fact that they put a platform almost free pass through the hoop. It's what makes me sad. People who have a lot of strength and talent. I would pity cogiesen bad life patterns of career.

Ar: In Paris you pay if you want to parade your place, your casting, your light, your sound, your everything. If you want to parade during fashion week they put on the calendar. Why here do not put people in the official calendar? Why bother schedules IFEMA ? This I do not understand. Here they say: if you desfilas remove at this time.

Alvarno Irigaray + Alvarno Vaillo Spring-Summer 2013.

If desfilas at 12:00 you can remove?

Ar: Yes, yes.

AL: Well, if it matches one of their shows from within, yes. As if you're not there. It's silly. I'm going to do me or put me not.

And then you come across not only the candy project, which has come to light, but that's just another international project that we have called and come looking for us because we were doing things differently.

Ultimately this benefits us. It is very hard and has been very hard, yes. There are times we have six months to a parade working to pay those bills but true. The principles are hard. Slowly. But interesting things come out of this type as well. There are people who spent 20 years marching and where is it?

Ar: Also, after our parade always have a few drinks. We invite all our guests. There is a special pass: you go in and you say no. That better not do anything. That's the most seedy. In the Residence of France had over 500 guests and all were left with cocktails and catering. It costs, of course. But if you decide, choose well. If not, better to do nothing.

If there is a possibility that you invitasen to parade in Paris, Milan, New York or London, do as Alvarno iríais?

Ar: Let.

AL: Yes, of course.

Ar: Milan not, because it is very Italian and is another environment. Paris itself, New York also, or London. But it is better to build a brand in the country, with a base of a good team working. If in the future, to make this leap, should have a team in Spain that could handle it all and we we were freer of some functions. When we achieve that yes we will. I do not want to return to live in Paris, Alvaro more, but having the office and spend three or four days in Paris and three or four days in Madrid, yes, why not. Now we are living.

Finally, you have spoken throughout the interview that secret collaboration with an international firm renowned French. Do we can forward any details about it?

Ar: We can not at this time for the contract. As is officially we will let you know. We have done a lot of patience. We had this story in 2012 and initially did not know what to say about the surprise. It was now to support the brand and we said no. If you want to work with us we have to work with the art direction. It was very hard to say that but a month later they called and got the OK.

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